With the weather getting warmer, we've got one protein on our minds: Seafood! While New York may not be considered a seafood mecca like New England, we can more than hold our own on the fish front. And because almost anything is better in sandwich form, we’re looking forward to creative and regional renditions from some of the city’s best chefs and shops. Sure, you can get a stellar lobster roll at the Red Hook Lobster Pound or The Mermaid Inn, but we’ve discovered seafood sandwiches far beyond lobster, like the fried shrimp po' boy at Cheeky Sandwiches, or even a Montreal-style lox sandwich, served right in Brooklyn.
Cheeky Sandwiches - Fried Shrimp Po'Boy
Address: 35 Orchard St., btwn Hester & Canal Sts.
No phone
Just because you didn’t make it to New Orlenans for Mardi Gras this year doesn’t mean you have to go an entire year without a proper Po’Boy. (We’d go crazy.) We get our fix at Cheeky Sandwiches on the Lower East Side and we almost always order the fried shrimp. These X-plump shellfish are dredged in a cornmeal-flour mixture that's finely spiced with Creole seasoning. And if the batter doesn't give the sandwich enough of a kick, this hefty sandwich is dressed to the nines with veggies, mayo, ketchup and hot sauce.
Lure Fishbar, Grilled Mahi Mahi Sandwich
Address: 142 Mercer St., at Prince St.
Phone: (212) 431-7676
There are two sides to Chef Josh Capon's cooking. Dinner service at Lure Fishbar features elegant, Asian-inspired plates like steamed red snapper in a red curry broth, while his newly opened Burger & Barrel goes the casual, gastropub route. These restaurants seem like polar opposites, but lunch at Lure bridges the gap with seafood sandwiches. Our favorite is the grilled mahi mahi, a club cleverly layered with bacon, tomato and mayo on sourdough with a side of house-made salt and vinegar chips.
Luke’s Lobster - Crab Roll
Phone: (212)877-8800
Address: 426 Amsterdam Ave., btwn 80th & 81Sts.
What started as a tiny fish shack in the East Village has quickly expanded into a small empire (and still growing) with four locations around the city. What makes Luke’s Lobster so unique is his tight relationship with the Maine seafood supplier, who just happens to his father. The menu features a traditional Maine-style lobster roll, but we’re much more excited about the crab roll, served on a buttered, toasted bun with a dab of mayo & seasoning. The crab is incredibly fresh and tender, practically melting into the buttered bun beneath it.
Saltie - Captain's Daughter Sandwich
Address: 378 Metropolitan Ave. (Brooklyn)
Phone: (718) 387-4777
This nautically-themed sandwich shop is yet another reason why it's so difficult to decide where to eat in Williamsburg. With its house-baked bread and unique ingredient combinations, Saltie makes a pretty compelling case for a visit. Our new favorite is called the Captain’s Daughter, which comes with sardines, pickled egg and salsa verde. While the fish isn’t freshly caught, it’s supremely tender and spiced just right. Our only complaint is that there isn’t a Manhattan outpost... yet.
For more information on Restaurant ratings visit restaurantgirl.com/
Saturday, 21 May 2011
Antonucci's Cafe - Reviewed
While the Upper East Side is a perfectly lovely place to live -- with plenty of great grocery stores, delivery options and old school Italian joints -- it isn't exactly a dining destination. After all, dining out is entertainment, and like anything else, we all want to see the new hit movie, broadway show, or eat at the new, hot restaurant. With the opening of Jean Georges' The Mark and Cascabel Taqueria, the Upper East Side has certainly gotten better, but it's still got quite a ways to go. While it's not my first choice, I've always been an open-minded eater, so I was happy to meet friends at a place they love called Antonucci's Cafe on 81st Street, just off Third Avenue. Now, I've lived in New York for over fifteen years and I've never heard of Antonucci's, which is surprising considering I spend most waking hours thinking about food. I assumed it would be good by uptown standards (I live uptown so I can say that) or even old school Italian standards, but not citywide foodie standards.
When I got to the entrance, I had deja vu of eating at the very same address when Butterfield 81 once occupied the space. It was a rainy, chilly night, so I expected to find a half empty dining room, but the dining room was buzzing with what seemed to be a neighborhood crowd. The owner, Francesco Antonucci, formerly owned and cooked at Remi's, a popular northern Italian restaurant in midtown, before moving uptown to open this eponymously named restaurant. Antonucci himself stands by the door greeting guests with news of a sweetbread special, tripe alla parmigiana, or grilled whole fish this evening. The walls are curiously painted pink and peppered with artwork, some of which looks rather expensive. I've gotten so used to brand new restaurants with ambitious young chefs and chic decor that I sometimes forget about neighborhood warhorses, like Antonucci's, that locals return to week after week. It was a warm, welcome change and so was the breadbasket filled with long breadsticks, focaccia and flatbread. The best part was the homemade ricotta encircled in a warm, sweet tomato sauce (pictured below) that accompanied the breadbasket. Honestly, I could've spent the evening eating the ethereal ricotta with a big glass of wine and been content. I've been to so many old school Italian joints that offer a couple wines by the glass and call it a day, but Antonucci's has an impressive wine list with ten whites by the glass and ten reds by the glass.
We started with deep-fried arancini flecked with ham and mozzarella and, more importantly, fried squash blossoms stuffed with the same dreamy ricotta made in-house. While it's hard to reinvent calamari, Antonucci's does just that with a stellar appetizer of seared calamari paired with a sharp pepper jelly and pistachio vinaigrette. There's a great chopped kale salad with salty ricotta and a garlicky balsamic vinaigrette and a grilled, whole orata, terrifically moist and fresh. But the sauteed calves liver might just be the best liver dish I've had to date. The livers were sauteed to succulent perfection and served with vinegary onions, which beautifully offset some of the fat, over parmesan-laced polenta.. (It was right up there with the bone marrow-braised octopus fusilli at Marea and April Bloomfield's oyster pan roast with uni crostini.) For dessert, we shared a banana souffle (pictured below) and warm molten cake. While the molten cake was good in a generic, melting chocolate kind of way, the banana souffle was a phenomenal cloud of deliciousness.
I'd happily go out of my way to eat there again. (In fact, I'm going for lunch this week.) I still want to sample the braised tripe, steamed clams with homemade sweet sausage, and the daily risotto. While Antonucci's Cafe may not be new, it's new to me and it's well worth a visit... or two.
For more information on Restaurant ratings visit restaurantgirl.com/
When I got to the entrance, I had deja vu of eating at the very same address when Butterfield 81 once occupied the space. It was a rainy, chilly night, so I expected to find a half empty dining room, but the dining room was buzzing with what seemed to be a neighborhood crowd. The owner, Francesco Antonucci, formerly owned and cooked at Remi's, a popular northern Italian restaurant in midtown, before moving uptown to open this eponymously named restaurant. Antonucci himself stands by the door greeting guests with news of a sweetbread special, tripe alla parmigiana, or grilled whole fish this evening. The walls are curiously painted pink and peppered with artwork, some of which looks rather expensive. I've gotten so used to brand new restaurants with ambitious young chefs and chic decor that I sometimes forget about neighborhood warhorses, like Antonucci's, that locals return to week after week. It was a warm, welcome change and so was the breadbasket filled with long breadsticks, focaccia and flatbread. The best part was the homemade ricotta encircled in a warm, sweet tomato sauce (pictured below) that accompanied the breadbasket. Honestly, I could've spent the evening eating the ethereal ricotta with a big glass of wine and been content. I've been to so many old school Italian joints that offer a couple wines by the glass and call it a day, but Antonucci's has an impressive wine list with ten whites by the glass and ten reds by the glass.
We started with deep-fried arancini flecked with ham and mozzarella and, more importantly, fried squash blossoms stuffed with the same dreamy ricotta made in-house. While it's hard to reinvent calamari, Antonucci's does just that with a stellar appetizer of seared calamari paired with a sharp pepper jelly and pistachio vinaigrette. There's a great chopped kale salad with salty ricotta and a garlicky balsamic vinaigrette and a grilled, whole orata, terrifically moist and fresh. But the sauteed calves liver might just be the best liver dish I've had to date. The livers were sauteed to succulent perfection and served with vinegary onions, which beautifully offset some of the fat, over parmesan-laced polenta.. (It was right up there with the bone marrow-braised octopus fusilli at Marea and April Bloomfield's oyster pan roast with uni crostini.) For dessert, we shared a banana souffle (pictured below) and warm molten cake. While the molten cake was good in a generic, melting chocolate kind of way, the banana souffle was a phenomenal cloud of deliciousness.
I'd happily go out of my way to eat there again. (In fact, I'm going for lunch this week.) I still want to sample the braised tripe, steamed clams with homemade sweet sausage, and the daily risotto. While Antonucci's Cafe may not be new, it's new to me and it's well worth a visit... or two.
For more information on Restaurant ratings visit restaurantgirl.com/
Q & A with Chef Masaharu Morimoto
It’s fair to say that no one in America (and perhaps the world) can cook Japanese food quite like Chef Masaharu Morimoto. The original Iron Chef & former Nobu chef is just as skilled at turning out traditional sushi and kaiseki meals as he is at Asian fusion. (And it takes a lot for a chef to convince me of the merits of fusion.) And yet, somehow whimsical creations, such as sashimi with burrata or a foie gras croissant with a soft duck egg and red miso achieve a level of brilliance. The Hiroshima-born culinary superstar went from being a bad boy, who used to sneak out a window to go downtown when he was an apprentice in Japan, to owning restaurants all over the world, everywhere from New York to New Delhi.
While he no longer returns to Japan since he no longer has family there, Morimoto is one of several big-name chefs raising funds for the Red Cross relief efforts there. Those who donate $10 or more will even receive a copy of some of his best recipes. To donate, go to donate.keeprecipes.com
Single/Married/Divorced?
Happily married for more than 30 years.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A professional baseball player.
Do you still play? And have you gotten to cook for any professional ball players?
Unfortunately, I no longer play. But yes, I have cooked for some Japanese major league players, such as a former Yankee Hideki Matsui, former Met Kaz Matsui, and non-Japanese players, such as Alex Rodriguez and many players on the Phillies.
What was your first job in food and what did you learn?
I was fortunate enough to be a sushi chef at a sushi restaurant where I learned everything a sushi chef had to know.
Training to be a sushi chef is notoriously difficult. Can you share any anecdotes that really tested your drive to succeed in the kitchen?
When I was still an apprentice, I lived upstairs from the sushi restaurant. It’s a typical training life for sushi apprentices in Japan. Their entire life is spent at the restaurant. But I would sneak out of a window after midnight and go out to downtown areas almost every night. I would push a car from the restaurant’s parking lot without starting the engine, so that nobody would notice. Apprentices were not supposed to do anything like that and we were meant to only follow the restaurant’s rules. I was a maverick from that point on. That part of me has never changed. I believe it has positively impacted my creativity.
It’s terrific that you’re contributing recipes to support Red Cross relief efforts in Japan. Chefs seem very quick to get involved in philanthropic activities. Why do you think that is?
Chefs cook food for people. Although our food doesn’t directly go to those who suffer in Japan, it goes to people who donate their money to buy the food, and the money goes to those who suffer. We know and have the means to help others.
Many of your dishes are very complex. How can home cooks adapt your recipes?
Some of my recipes may be very difficult and complex for the home cook, but I hope they can learn something new and get ideas from my cookbook and restaurants that they can use in everyday food.
Can you offer any tips for people who want to make their own sushi at home?
Sharpen your knife before making sushi.
What’s the most important kitchen tool to own?
High-quality knives.
How often do you get to visit Japan? Do you still have a lot of family there?
I rarely visit Japan because I don’t have many family members there.
Who has been the toughest competitor you’ve faced on Iron Chef?
Every chef has been a tough challenger.
You’ve already accomplished so much, so how do you stay motivated to pursue new culinary aspirations?
The culinary world is so deep that there are always a lot of things for me to explore.
So what’s next for you this year?
I’m opening a few restaurants this year; a couple of them don’t serve sushi. I’m excited to do something new.
For more information on Restaurant ratings visit restaurantgirl.com/
While he no longer returns to Japan since he no longer has family there, Morimoto is one of several big-name chefs raising funds for the Red Cross relief efforts there. Those who donate $10 or more will even receive a copy of some of his best recipes. To donate, go to donate.keeprecipes.com
Single/Married/Divorced?
Happily married for more than 30 years.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A professional baseball player.
Do you still play? And have you gotten to cook for any professional ball players?
Unfortunately, I no longer play. But yes, I have cooked for some Japanese major league players, such as a former Yankee Hideki Matsui, former Met Kaz Matsui, and non-Japanese players, such as Alex Rodriguez and many players on the Phillies.
What was your first job in food and what did you learn?
I was fortunate enough to be a sushi chef at a sushi restaurant where I learned everything a sushi chef had to know.
Training to be a sushi chef is notoriously difficult. Can you share any anecdotes that really tested your drive to succeed in the kitchen?
When I was still an apprentice, I lived upstairs from the sushi restaurant. It’s a typical training life for sushi apprentices in Japan. Their entire life is spent at the restaurant. But I would sneak out of a window after midnight and go out to downtown areas almost every night. I would push a car from the restaurant’s parking lot without starting the engine, so that nobody would notice. Apprentices were not supposed to do anything like that and we were meant to only follow the restaurant’s rules. I was a maverick from that point on. That part of me has never changed. I believe it has positively impacted my creativity.
It’s terrific that you’re contributing recipes to support Red Cross relief efforts in Japan. Chefs seem very quick to get involved in philanthropic activities. Why do you think that is?
Chefs cook food for people. Although our food doesn’t directly go to those who suffer in Japan, it goes to people who donate their money to buy the food, and the money goes to those who suffer. We know and have the means to help others.
Many of your dishes are very complex. How can home cooks adapt your recipes?
Some of my recipes may be very difficult and complex for the home cook, but I hope they can learn something new and get ideas from my cookbook and restaurants that they can use in everyday food.
Can you offer any tips for people who want to make their own sushi at home?
Sharpen your knife before making sushi.
What’s the most important kitchen tool to own?
High-quality knives.
How often do you get to visit Japan? Do you still have a lot of family there?
I rarely visit Japan because I don’t have many family members there.
Who has been the toughest competitor you’ve faced on Iron Chef?
Every chef has been a tough challenger.
You’ve already accomplished so much, so how do you stay motivated to pursue new culinary aspirations?
The culinary world is so deep that there are always a lot of things for me to explore.
So what’s next for you this year?
I’m opening a few restaurants this year; a couple of them don’t serve sushi. I’m excited to do something new.
For more information on Restaurant ratings visit restaurantgirl.com/
Trend Watch: The New Asian Fusion
There are few food words that hold a worse connotation than Asian Fusion. Asian fusion evokes images of diners lounging on Chinoiserie red banquettes, while nibbling on Chinese chicken salads and desserts artfully garnished with chocolate sauce drawings. But maybe it’s time to put this prejudice behind us because a new tide of Asian Fusion cuisine seems to be upon us and frankly, it's exciting. Case in point: Los Angeles’ famed Kogi Bbq Trucks. In fact, you might say that chef Roy Choi and his Kogi Bbq trucks are largely responsible for this Asian fusion 2.0, particularly the mash-up of Latin and Asian cooking by way of Korean tacos.
Their Korean tacos have launched hundreds of imitators across the country, including the Kimchi Taco Trucks and Korilla BBQ trucks on the other side of the country. Kimchi Taco hit New York's city streets just a few months ago and often draw block-long lines at lunchtime. Foodies stalk their twitter feed to locate where they can get their fix of kim-cheesesteak (pictured below) and kimchi arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with cheese, kimchi pickling juice and red pepper paste). Korilla BBQ Truck (pronounced Koreeya) roams the city streets, dishing out bulgogi tacos and the “B.K.F.R. Burrito” -- a bacon, kimchi and fried rice monster-bundle, wrapped in a flour tortilla.
Riding high on his success on Top Chef and Top Chef All-Stars, Angelo Sosa recently debuted his unique version of Asian fusion at midtown’s Social Eatz. The successor to his highly regarded, but shuttered too soon sandwich shop, Xie Xie, Social Eatz offers ramped-up versions of both American and Asian classics, like the burger and bibimbap. He combines the two dishes into one bibimbap-topped burger, which reveals itself as a juicy, crunchy, salty, and refreshing explosion of flavors and textures. The menu also features a bulgogi burger (pictured above), with a beautifully charred patty, layered with cucumber kimchee and spicy mayo, served a soft bun. The buckwheat noodle salad with ponzu sauce comes with an unusual “candied wasabi” and the yuzu cream puffs are really cream puffs in name only. Really, they’re one-of-a-kind doughnut holes, fried and stuffed with a punchy yuzu cream.
With hamburgers and tacos getting the fusion treatment, hot dogs aren’t left far behind. Asiadog has a mobile truck as well as a brick-and-mortar shop on the Lower East Side, where they inject an Asian touch into the classic American frank. The hot dogs here come in beef, veggie, and chicken varieties with loads of topping combinations. Order the "Vinh" and you get a banh mi-style dog topped with pate, aioli and pickled vegetables. The "Ginny" is crowned with kimchi and nori flakes. For a true spin on an American flavor gone wild, try the "Mash "with both sweet and spicy ketchup, jalapeno mustard and crushed potato chips -- crunchy, spicy, sweet and savory all on one bun.
While Asian fusion has yet to move to the upper echelons of the food chain, it’s heading there as chefs find inspired and innovative ways to fuse the two food worlds. And kimchi, which was once an obscure Korean dish only available in Korean delis and restaurants, has now become a prominent item on non-Korean menus and gourmet groceries. Likwise, yuzu is becoming more mainstream, surfacing in cocktails and inventive dishes around the city. We just hope this new brand of Asian fusion sticks around for a while.
For more information on Best nyc restaurants visit restaurantgirl.com/
Their Korean tacos have launched hundreds of imitators across the country, including the Kimchi Taco Trucks and Korilla BBQ trucks on the other side of the country. Kimchi Taco hit New York's city streets just a few months ago and often draw block-long lines at lunchtime. Foodies stalk their twitter feed to locate where they can get their fix of kim-cheesesteak (pictured below) and kimchi arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with cheese, kimchi pickling juice and red pepper paste). Korilla BBQ Truck (pronounced Koreeya) roams the city streets, dishing out bulgogi tacos and the “B.K.F.R. Burrito” -- a bacon, kimchi and fried rice monster-bundle, wrapped in a flour tortilla.
Riding high on his success on Top Chef and Top Chef All-Stars, Angelo Sosa recently debuted his unique version of Asian fusion at midtown’s Social Eatz. The successor to his highly regarded, but shuttered too soon sandwich shop, Xie Xie, Social Eatz offers ramped-up versions of both American and Asian classics, like the burger and bibimbap. He combines the two dishes into one bibimbap-topped burger, which reveals itself as a juicy, crunchy, salty, and refreshing explosion of flavors and textures. The menu also features a bulgogi burger (pictured above), with a beautifully charred patty, layered with cucumber kimchee and spicy mayo, served a soft bun. The buckwheat noodle salad with ponzu sauce comes with an unusual “candied wasabi” and the yuzu cream puffs are really cream puffs in name only. Really, they’re one-of-a-kind doughnut holes, fried and stuffed with a punchy yuzu cream.
With hamburgers and tacos getting the fusion treatment, hot dogs aren’t left far behind. Asiadog has a mobile truck as well as a brick-and-mortar shop on the Lower East Side, where they inject an Asian touch into the classic American frank. The hot dogs here come in beef, veggie, and chicken varieties with loads of topping combinations. Order the "Vinh" and you get a banh mi-style dog topped with pate, aioli and pickled vegetables. The "Ginny" is crowned with kimchi and nori flakes. For a true spin on an American flavor gone wild, try the "Mash "with both sweet and spicy ketchup, jalapeno mustard and crushed potato chips -- crunchy, spicy, sweet and savory all on one bun.
While Asian fusion has yet to move to the upper echelons of the food chain, it’s heading there as chefs find inspired and innovative ways to fuse the two food worlds. And kimchi, which was once an obscure Korean dish only available in Korean delis and restaurants, has now become a prominent item on non-Korean menus and gourmet groceries. Likwise, yuzu is becoming more mainstream, surfacing in cocktails and inventive dishes around the city. We just hope this new brand of Asian fusion sticks around for a while.
For more information on Best nyc restaurants visit restaurantgirl.com/
Q & A With Porsena's Sara Jenkins
Chef Sara Jenkins has successfully pulled off a hat trick in the East Village. She runs three wildly popular restaurants, all located within just a few block radius -- Veloce, Porchetta, and Porsena, her newest, pasta-centric venture, which opened in November. Each of her eateries specializes in a different Italian staple -- pizza, roast suckling pig sandwiches, and noodles. The single concept focus has paid off for the chef: “It wasn’t a conscious decision to do these types of restaurants, but the advantage is that you can really concentrate on doing one thing well,” Jenkins says. Jenkins has three hit restaurants and is looking to open more Porchetta outposts around the city.
This from a woman who grew up in Tuscany, surrounded by farmers with no electricity and no running water. She may even write a memoir: “I would really like to write about my experience growing up in Tuscany next to these peasant farmers who went from having no electricity and running water to having all the conveniences of modern life in the space of about ten years,” Jenkins expalins, “I feel privileged to see a very old way of life at the very end of it, which I, of course, did not realize was about to change so drastically." Other than her own, her favorite pork sandwich renditions include the banh mi at Banh Mi Saigon in Chinatown and a good Cubano.
With three restaurants in the East Village, you're an important figure in the food scene there. Why did you first choose to open there?
My first job in New York was on Ninth Street, a little Tuscan restaurant called I Coppi. So I just landed in the East Village. I’ve always enjoyed being a part of the community.
Each of your restaurants specializes in a classic, Italian dish. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of running restaurants with such focused concepts?
The advantage is that you can really concentrate on doing one thing well, the disadvantage is that it’s limiting. But it really wasn’t a conscious decision to do these types of restaurants. With Porchetta, I wanted to do something that wouldn’t be so time-consuming because I had a one-year-old child at the time. I had always loved porchetta, the dish worked in the space that we found for a restaurant, and everything just came together. Veloce came about because [my business partner] Frederick Twomey really wanted to use the space for a pizzeria. And for Porsena, I wanted to focus on pasta because one, that’s something I’m known for, and two, it’s uncomplicated
If you had to pick one, what's your favorite dish at Porsena?
That’s hard because I really like everything on the menu, but I probably like the escarole salad and the cauliflower pennette best.
Why did you decide to serve square pizza at Veloce?
Frederick Twomey really wanted to do square pizza and I thought it was a nice twist.
Any desire to open a Neapolitan-style pizzeria?
It’s been done to death at this point. I’m more interested in opening a Lebanese restaurant, but doing all that quick, take-away stuff with care and quality ingredients.
Other than porchetta, what’s your favorite pork sandwich?
It’s a hard choice, but I’d choose either a Cubano or a banh mi. There used to be an amazing Dominican place on 13th street with phenomenal Cubanos, but now I get them from the Barnyard Cheese Shop on Avenue C. And for banh mis, I usually go down to Chinatown. There’s that place on Grand Street, Banh Mi Saigon.
Which do you prefer, fresh pasta or dried pasta?
I think dry pasta is terribly underrated, so I’d say that. But beautiful, fresh pasta is a thing of joy when it’s done right.
There are so many other debates that arise when cooking pasta. For instance, do you add olive oil to the boiling water? Never. I think that’s a real Italian-American thing.
What were your favorite foods to eat growing up?
Grilled calves liver, escargot and pasta carbonara. I was such a picky eater, but I was exposed to these dishes because we lived all over Europe near the Mediterranean. I liked escargot because it’s loaded with garlic and butter. But I can’t explain why I liked liver, I just always have.
What neighborhood do you live in and what are some of your favorite haunts there?
I live in Williamsburg and I love La Superior, Fatty Cue and Diner. But it is really a bar neighborhood, and as I age I have less patience for dining out in Williamsburg.
You come from a very literary family, so any plans to write a memoir like so many chefs are doing these days?
I would really like to write about my experience growing up in Tuscany next to these peasant farmers who went from having no electricity and running water to having all the conveniences of modern life in the space of about ten years. I feel like I was privileged to see a very old way of life at the very end of it, which I of course did not realize was about to change so drastically.
For more information on Best nyc restaurants visit restaurantgirl.com/
This from a woman who grew up in Tuscany, surrounded by farmers with no electricity and no running water. She may even write a memoir: “I would really like to write about my experience growing up in Tuscany next to these peasant farmers who went from having no electricity and running water to having all the conveniences of modern life in the space of about ten years,” Jenkins expalins, “I feel privileged to see a very old way of life at the very end of it, which I, of course, did not realize was about to change so drastically." Other than her own, her favorite pork sandwich renditions include the banh mi at Banh Mi Saigon in Chinatown and a good Cubano.
With three restaurants in the East Village, you're an important figure in the food scene there. Why did you first choose to open there?
My first job in New York was on Ninth Street, a little Tuscan restaurant called I Coppi. So I just landed in the East Village. I’ve always enjoyed being a part of the community.
Each of your restaurants specializes in a classic, Italian dish. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages of running restaurants with such focused concepts?
The advantage is that you can really concentrate on doing one thing well, the disadvantage is that it’s limiting. But it really wasn’t a conscious decision to do these types of restaurants. With Porchetta, I wanted to do something that wouldn’t be so time-consuming because I had a one-year-old child at the time. I had always loved porchetta, the dish worked in the space that we found for a restaurant, and everything just came together. Veloce came about because [my business partner] Frederick Twomey really wanted to use the space for a pizzeria. And for Porsena, I wanted to focus on pasta because one, that’s something I’m known for, and two, it’s uncomplicated
If you had to pick one, what's your favorite dish at Porsena?
That’s hard because I really like everything on the menu, but I probably like the escarole salad and the cauliflower pennette best.
Why did you decide to serve square pizza at Veloce?
Frederick Twomey really wanted to do square pizza and I thought it was a nice twist.
Any desire to open a Neapolitan-style pizzeria?
It’s been done to death at this point. I’m more interested in opening a Lebanese restaurant, but doing all that quick, take-away stuff with care and quality ingredients.
Other than porchetta, what’s your favorite pork sandwich?
It’s a hard choice, but I’d choose either a Cubano or a banh mi. There used to be an amazing Dominican place on 13th street with phenomenal Cubanos, but now I get them from the Barnyard Cheese Shop on Avenue C. And for banh mis, I usually go down to Chinatown. There’s that place on Grand Street, Banh Mi Saigon.
Which do you prefer, fresh pasta or dried pasta?
I think dry pasta is terribly underrated, so I’d say that. But beautiful, fresh pasta is a thing of joy when it’s done right.
There are so many other debates that arise when cooking pasta. For instance, do you add olive oil to the boiling water? Never. I think that’s a real Italian-American thing.
What were your favorite foods to eat growing up?
Grilled calves liver, escargot and pasta carbonara. I was such a picky eater, but I was exposed to these dishes because we lived all over Europe near the Mediterranean. I liked escargot because it’s loaded with garlic and butter. But I can’t explain why I liked liver, I just always have.
What neighborhood do you live in and what are some of your favorite haunts there?
I live in Williamsburg and I love La Superior, Fatty Cue and Diner. But it is really a bar neighborhood, and as I age I have less patience for dining out in Williamsburg.
You come from a very literary family, so any plans to write a memoir like so many chefs are doing these days?
I would really like to write about my experience growing up in Tuscany next to these peasant farmers who went from having no electricity and running water to having all the conveniences of modern life in the space of about ten years. I feel like I was privileged to see a very old way of life at the very end of it, which I of course did not realize was about to change so drastically.
For more information on Best nyc restaurants visit restaurantgirl.com/
Eating Events
The first half of May is packed with some terrific food events. From an Asian Street Food Festival to the annual James Beard Awards, this coming month is shaping up to be a busy one for chefs and foodies alike. We’ve got the details on a few happenings that we’re most excited about. See you there...
Luckyrice
Southeast Asia is at the top of my to-do travel list, but in the meantime, I’m excited for the Luckyrice Night Market. As part of a weeklong festival of Asian inspired events, by night Dumbo turns into a street food mecca. You’ll find ethnic foods from Korea and the Phillipines alongside hip, new fusion eats like kimchi-topped hot dogs. During the festival, there will also be a cocktail party at the Bowery Hotel and an omakase dinner with Chef Masaharu Morimoto.
New Amsterdam Market
One of our favorite markets in the city, the New Amsterdam Market officially starts up again June 5th, but they'll be offering up a teaser with Floralia, a special one-market this Sunday, May 1st. Over fifty vendors will set up shop around a springtime maypole -- a perfect kick-off party for what is sure to be another great season at the market, located just under the Brooklyn Bridge (in a little nook right off South Street Seaport). Every Sunday, there will be a rotating roster of artisanal vendors, everything from Ricks Picks to Liddabit Sweets, Orwasher’s Bread, Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi and plenty of cheese purveyors. Come hungry. Even Porchetta makes an appearance as do People’s Pops and Luke’s Lobster so you can eat while you shop.
James Beard Awards
It may not be broadcast live on television, the James Beard awards are most definitely the Oscar’s of food. On May 9th, the food world will converge on Lincoln Center, where the awards will be presented and the celebration will begin. Tickets are somewhat pricey ($400-$1500), but worth it if you want to rub shoulders with chefs like Stephanie Izard, whose restaurant The Girl & The Goat is nominated for the Best New Restaurant award.
What Happens When "The Women Take Over Every Monday"
A pop-up within a pop-up, Monday nights at What Happens When are dedicated a rotating roster of female chefs and sommeliers. Previous chef pairings have included an all-star mashup of Amanda Freitag with Nancy Olson (Gramercy Tavern) and wines curated by Laura Maniec (Niko). On Monday, May 2nd there will be yet another great crew taking over the kitchen, including Missy Robbins and Erin Burns from A Voce paired with The Modern’s sommelier Belinda Chang. Let’s hear it for the girls.
Toast to the Children
It always feels good to help out children and this might be the best way to do it. We’re looking forward to stuffing ourselves silly for a good cause at Toast to the Children. Chef Tom Collichio partners up with Bellevue Hospital for this upscale soiree at the chef’s newest restaurant, Riverpark. Join honoree Gail Simmons in sampling the spread, which will include dishes from Lincoln, Barbuto, and Perilla.
For more information on Local restaurant reviews visit restaurantgirl.com/
Luckyrice
Southeast Asia is at the top of my to-do travel list, but in the meantime, I’m excited for the Luckyrice Night Market. As part of a weeklong festival of Asian inspired events, by night Dumbo turns into a street food mecca. You’ll find ethnic foods from Korea and the Phillipines alongside hip, new fusion eats like kimchi-topped hot dogs. During the festival, there will also be a cocktail party at the Bowery Hotel and an omakase dinner with Chef Masaharu Morimoto.
New Amsterdam Market
One of our favorite markets in the city, the New Amsterdam Market officially starts up again June 5th, but they'll be offering up a teaser with Floralia, a special one-market this Sunday, May 1st. Over fifty vendors will set up shop around a springtime maypole -- a perfect kick-off party for what is sure to be another great season at the market, located just under the Brooklyn Bridge (in a little nook right off South Street Seaport). Every Sunday, there will be a rotating roster of artisanal vendors, everything from Ricks Picks to Liddabit Sweets, Orwasher’s Bread, Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi and plenty of cheese purveyors. Come hungry. Even Porchetta makes an appearance as do People’s Pops and Luke’s Lobster so you can eat while you shop.
James Beard Awards
It may not be broadcast live on television, the James Beard awards are most definitely the Oscar’s of food. On May 9th, the food world will converge on Lincoln Center, where the awards will be presented and the celebration will begin. Tickets are somewhat pricey ($400-$1500), but worth it if you want to rub shoulders with chefs like Stephanie Izard, whose restaurant The Girl & The Goat is nominated for the Best New Restaurant award.
What Happens When "The Women Take Over Every Monday"
A pop-up within a pop-up, Monday nights at What Happens When are dedicated a rotating roster of female chefs and sommeliers. Previous chef pairings have included an all-star mashup of Amanda Freitag with Nancy Olson (Gramercy Tavern) and wines curated by Laura Maniec (Niko). On Monday, May 2nd there will be yet another great crew taking over the kitchen, including Missy Robbins and Erin Burns from A Voce paired with The Modern’s sommelier Belinda Chang. Let’s hear it for the girls.
Toast to the Children
It always feels good to help out children and this might be the best way to do it. We’re looking forward to stuffing ourselves silly for a good cause at Toast to the Children. Chef Tom Collichio partners up with Bellevue Hospital for this upscale soiree at the chef’s newest restaurant, Riverpark. Join honoree Gail Simmons in sampling the spread, which will include dishes from Lincoln, Barbuto, and Perilla.
For more information on Local restaurant reviews visit restaurantgirl.com/
Spring Fling - Ten Restaurants To Try This Season
After a long, harsh winter, New Yorkers finally have a chance to embrace a new dining season and, best of all, dine outdoors. This spring, it’s time for all of us to get out and discover new ingredients, neighborhoods, restaurants, and potential spring flings. The five boroughs offer plenty of both, though we can only guarantee the promise of food. While Eataly readies a rooftop beer garden, David Bouley just unveiled Brushstroke, a long-awaited homage to traditional Japanese cooking. On a warm night, you can take a field trip to Cafe Habana in Fort Greene and sip mojitos outdoors at shaded picnic tables with colorful umbrellas or have a romantic spring fling (and oven-baked pizzas) at Apizz on the Lower East Side. That’s just a glimpse of the possibilites this season…
Porsena
Address: 21 E. Seventh St., btwn. Second and Third avenues
Phone: (212) 228-4923
Sara Jenkins is quietly building an empire of Italian eateries (Veloce, Porchetta) in the East Village. Her latest venture, Porsena, is our favorite of the bunch, because she’s devoted most of the menu to pasta and she ranks among the best in her field. Where to begin? There’s homemade pasta twists in a “sea of cheese” (canolicchie con una marea de formaggio), a knock-out version of spaghetti with clams, and orrechiete (ears) with spicy lamb sausage and greens.
Hibino
Address: 333 Henry St., near Pacific Street (Brooklyn)
Phone: (718) 260-8052
Hibino may seem like a sleepy Japanese spot in Cobble Hill, but with its housemade tofu and daily specials, it’s worthy of destination dining status. In fact, hibino translates as daily, so expect hyper-fresh and seasonal cooking. There’s a rotating selection of obananzi, or Japanese tapas, with seasonal offerings, like Hawaiian pumpkin swordfish sushi, soft shell crab rolls, and simmered tofu with shredded beef. Because the menu changes so frequently, it’s hard to get tired of eating here
Eataly
Address: 200 Fifth Ave., near 23rd Street
Phone: (646) 398-5100
Just when you thought this Italian food hall couldn’t possibly get any bigger, it’s about to do just that. This expansive, Flatiron marketplace already houses four restaurants, a cooking school and specialty retail shops. In just a few days, Eataly will also boast a rooftop beer garden with 300 seats and an extensive selection of Italian craft beers. Grab a date or a beer aficionado to sample imported brews alongside Batali-stamped (and beer-friendly) dishes, like fried shitake mushrooms and pork shoulder with cabbage. Between the beer, food menu and the view of the Empire State Building and Madison Square Park, you couldn't ask for a more perfect evening. The only real drawback are the huge crowds Eataly draws daily.
Apizz
Address: 217 Eldridge St., near Stanton Street
Phone: (212) 253-9199
Though Apizz has been around for years now, this cozy, low-key spot never gets old. Come spring, we look forward to a revisit to John La Femina and Frank DeCarlo’s Lower East Side eatery to savor the rustic, Italian fare. Just like Peasant, its sister restaurant, a large, wood-burning oven is not only the centerpiece of the dining room, but also of the menu. In fact, everything on Apizz’s menu is kissed by the oven, including the signature, margherita pizza and wood-roasted mushrooms with polenta cakes. To fully reap the rewards of the season, try the whole-roasted fish, served over an arugula-tomato salad or the oven-seared ribeye.
Takashi
Address: 456 Hudson St., near Barrow Street
Phone: (212) 414-2929
Nothing breaks the ice on a date, quite like “The Tongue Experience” at this beef lover’s paradise in Greenwich Village. Takashi’s unusual tasting menu features three different cuts of beef tongue, all cooked on a grill built right into your table. If that’s not enough of a conversation starter, this Japanese spot serves both cooked and uncooked beef, the likes of liver sashimi and beef tartare on sushi rice. The exotic menu is the work of Takashi Inoue, an Osaka-born chef who wanted to recreate a traditional Japanese barbecue experience, called yakiniku. His restaurant is the perfect place for a culinary adventure or a foodie date.
Alta
Address: 64 W. 10th St., btwn. Fifth and Sixth Avenues
Phone: (212) 505-7777
A tapas bar is hardly a novelty these days, but Alta manages to keep the genre fresh by serving small plates with influences that span from South America to Asia. (The candle-lit, subterranean dining room doesn’t hurt things either.) Start with an interesting Spanish red wine and sample small plates, like fried goat cheese drizzled with lavender-infused honey, grilled grape leaves stuffed with chicken confit, or beef carpaccio anointed with horseradish crème fraiche. Not your typical tapas joint, Alta's menu also features decadent offerings, like seared foie gras. This warm, buttery sliver of liver is served on a buttery slice of brioche and layered with diced pistachios, mango ginger chutney and bee pollen.
Flex Mussels
Address: 154 W. 13th St., btwn. Sixth and Seventh avenues;
Phone: 174 E. 82nd Street between Lexington and Third avenues
Sharing a bowl of steamed mussels is a great, interactive dinner date. Think about it: Two strangers rescuing plump crustaceans from their shells, then sopping up the remaining sauce with bread and warm, salty French fries. If you're tired of France’s traditional moules frites, head to Flex Mussels for a choice of 20 different versions, inspired by cuisines from all over the world. There’s a Mexican rendition of mussels, mingled with chorizo and chipotle adobo, while the Portuguese comes with linguica sausage and clams. Still, our favorite is the Thai mussels, served in a coconut curry broth, redolent with lots of lemongrass.
Habana Outpost
Address: 757 Fulton St., near South Portland Avenue (Fort Greene)
Phone: (718) 858-9500
One of spring’s greatest pleasures is dining al fresco and no one does it quite like this Habana Outpost in Fort Greene. Where else in the city can you sip mojitos along picnic benches or catch a Sunday night movie screening, or have a smoothie made in a stationary bike-powered blender. In fact, the entire restaurant runs on solar power. As for the Cuban cooking, there’s a killer ear of corn, rubbed in mayo & cotijia cheese, pressed Cuban sandwiches, and gobs of fresh guacamole.
Traif
Address: 229 South 4th St., near Havemeyer Street (Williamsburg)
Phone: (347) 844-9578
If you haven’t made it to this unusual, Williamsburg restaurant, it’s time to try something totally unkosher. Traif actually means food that defies Jewish dietary laws, such as pork and shellfish. (If you are kosher, don’t bother.) For the rest of us, there’s some creative, spring dishes, like braised pork belly with avocado and corn, seared scallops with creamed corn, and bacon-studded donuts for dessert.
Brushstroke
Address: 264 W 40th St., btwn. Seventh and Eighth avenues
Phone: (212) 391-2370
Ten years in the making, Brushstroke is David Bouley’s homage to traditional Japanese cooking. A French chef in love with Japanese cooking, Bouley has teamed up with Tsuji Culinary Institute to open this gorgeous, Tribeca spot, furbished with honeyed wood, 20,000 paper books, and a beautiful reclaimed sushi bar. There’s a sushi and a la carte menu, but the real focus here are the seasonal tasting menus, prepared by some of Japan’s best young chefs. The menu features dishes, the likes of stewed Wagyu beef, Dungeness crab rice porridge, seared toro tuna as well as well-crafted Japanese cocktails.
For more information on Local restaurant reviews visit restaurantgirl.com/
Porsena
Address: 21 E. Seventh St., btwn. Second and Third avenues
Phone: (212) 228-4923
Sara Jenkins is quietly building an empire of Italian eateries (Veloce, Porchetta) in the East Village. Her latest venture, Porsena, is our favorite of the bunch, because she’s devoted most of the menu to pasta and she ranks among the best in her field. Where to begin? There’s homemade pasta twists in a “sea of cheese” (canolicchie con una marea de formaggio), a knock-out version of spaghetti with clams, and orrechiete (ears) with spicy lamb sausage and greens.
Hibino
Address: 333 Henry St., near Pacific Street (Brooklyn)
Phone: (718) 260-8052
Hibino may seem like a sleepy Japanese spot in Cobble Hill, but with its housemade tofu and daily specials, it’s worthy of destination dining status. In fact, hibino translates as daily, so expect hyper-fresh and seasonal cooking. There’s a rotating selection of obananzi, or Japanese tapas, with seasonal offerings, like Hawaiian pumpkin swordfish sushi, soft shell crab rolls, and simmered tofu with shredded beef. Because the menu changes so frequently, it’s hard to get tired of eating here
Eataly
Address: 200 Fifth Ave., near 23rd Street
Phone: (646) 398-5100
Just when you thought this Italian food hall couldn’t possibly get any bigger, it’s about to do just that. This expansive, Flatiron marketplace already houses four restaurants, a cooking school and specialty retail shops. In just a few days, Eataly will also boast a rooftop beer garden with 300 seats and an extensive selection of Italian craft beers. Grab a date or a beer aficionado to sample imported brews alongside Batali-stamped (and beer-friendly) dishes, like fried shitake mushrooms and pork shoulder with cabbage. Between the beer, food menu and the view of the Empire State Building and Madison Square Park, you couldn't ask for a more perfect evening. The only real drawback are the huge crowds Eataly draws daily.
Apizz
Address: 217 Eldridge St., near Stanton Street
Phone: (212) 253-9199
Though Apizz has been around for years now, this cozy, low-key spot never gets old. Come spring, we look forward to a revisit to John La Femina and Frank DeCarlo’s Lower East Side eatery to savor the rustic, Italian fare. Just like Peasant, its sister restaurant, a large, wood-burning oven is not only the centerpiece of the dining room, but also of the menu. In fact, everything on Apizz’s menu is kissed by the oven, including the signature, margherita pizza and wood-roasted mushrooms with polenta cakes. To fully reap the rewards of the season, try the whole-roasted fish, served over an arugula-tomato salad or the oven-seared ribeye.
Takashi
Address: 456 Hudson St., near Barrow Street
Phone: (212) 414-2929
Nothing breaks the ice on a date, quite like “The Tongue Experience” at this beef lover’s paradise in Greenwich Village. Takashi’s unusual tasting menu features three different cuts of beef tongue, all cooked on a grill built right into your table. If that’s not enough of a conversation starter, this Japanese spot serves both cooked and uncooked beef, the likes of liver sashimi and beef tartare on sushi rice. The exotic menu is the work of Takashi Inoue, an Osaka-born chef who wanted to recreate a traditional Japanese barbecue experience, called yakiniku. His restaurant is the perfect place for a culinary adventure or a foodie date.
Alta
Address: 64 W. 10th St., btwn. Fifth and Sixth Avenues
Phone: (212) 505-7777
A tapas bar is hardly a novelty these days, but Alta manages to keep the genre fresh by serving small plates with influences that span from South America to Asia. (The candle-lit, subterranean dining room doesn’t hurt things either.) Start with an interesting Spanish red wine and sample small plates, like fried goat cheese drizzled with lavender-infused honey, grilled grape leaves stuffed with chicken confit, or beef carpaccio anointed with horseradish crème fraiche. Not your typical tapas joint, Alta's menu also features decadent offerings, like seared foie gras. This warm, buttery sliver of liver is served on a buttery slice of brioche and layered with diced pistachios, mango ginger chutney and bee pollen.
Flex Mussels
Address: 154 W. 13th St., btwn. Sixth and Seventh avenues;
Phone: 174 E. 82nd Street between Lexington and Third avenues
Sharing a bowl of steamed mussels is a great, interactive dinner date. Think about it: Two strangers rescuing plump crustaceans from their shells, then sopping up the remaining sauce with bread and warm, salty French fries. If you're tired of France’s traditional moules frites, head to Flex Mussels for a choice of 20 different versions, inspired by cuisines from all over the world. There’s a Mexican rendition of mussels, mingled with chorizo and chipotle adobo, while the Portuguese comes with linguica sausage and clams. Still, our favorite is the Thai mussels, served in a coconut curry broth, redolent with lots of lemongrass.
Habana Outpost
Address: 757 Fulton St., near South Portland Avenue (Fort Greene)
Phone: (718) 858-9500
One of spring’s greatest pleasures is dining al fresco and no one does it quite like this Habana Outpost in Fort Greene. Where else in the city can you sip mojitos along picnic benches or catch a Sunday night movie screening, or have a smoothie made in a stationary bike-powered blender. In fact, the entire restaurant runs on solar power. As for the Cuban cooking, there’s a killer ear of corn, rubbed in mayo & cotijia cheese, pressed Cuban sandwiches, and gobs of fresh guacamole.
Traif
Address: 229 South 4th St., near Havemeyer Street (Williamsburg)
Phone: (347) 844-9578
If you haven’t made it to this unusual, Williamsburg restaurant, it’s time to try something totally unkosher. Traif actually means food that defies Jewish dietary laws, such as pork and shellfish. (If you are kosher, don’t bother.) For the rest of us, there’s some creative, spring dishes, like braised pork belly with avocado and corn, seared scallops with creamed corn, and bacon-studded donuts for dessert.
Brushstroke
Address: 264 W 40th St., btwn. Seventh and Eighth avenues
Phone: (212) 391-2370
Ten years in the making, Brushstroke is David Bouley’s homage to traditional Japanese cooking. A French chef in love with Japanese cooking, Bouley has teamed up with Tsuji Culinary Institute to open this gorgeous, Tribeca spot, furbished with honeyed wood, 20,000 paper books, and a beautiful reclaimed sushi bar. There’s a sushi and a la carte menu, but the real focus here are the seasonal tasting menus, prepared by some of Japan’s best young chefs. The menu features dishes, the likes of stewed Wagyu beef, Dungeness crab rice porridge, seared toro tuna as well as well-crafted Japanese cocktails.
For more information on Local restaurant reviews visit restaurantgirl.com/
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